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The weather turned cold and brisk from one day to the next; without warning we went from wearing shorts and tanks to drawers brimming over with light sweaters and scarves. Luckily, we snatched up the end of summer’s ripest, reddest tomatoes and preserved them. A few weeks from now, we’ll be able to reinvent those fruits and memories of summer in pasta dishes, chunky stews, and hearty soups.

Tara is crazy about putting up fruits and vegetables — crisp vegetables in brine, sweet fruits in syrup, and of course, sauce-perfect tomatoes. One of her favorite books is Put ‘em Up! by Sherri Brooks Vinton, but you can use your preferred recipes to preserve any of the seasonal produce you love; it’s the perfect way to recall the warmer months.

It has been a long, hot, sweaty summer. We’ve enjoyed the sunshine stretching out lazily into the evening, pink twilights spent drinking frosty beers on crowded restaurant patios, and eating farmers’ market seasonal produce like garnet red cherries and bright yellow squash blossoms. But, despite the summer fun and sun, we do admit to ogling boutique mannequins as they unblushingly strip out of flowy sundresses and slip into leather pants and boyfriend sweaters. It’s time to turn the page, but, not before we squeeze in one last recipe that hip-hip-hoorays the bounty of the warmest months.

Cobblers are the perfect dessert to highlight and celebrate fresh produce: quickly cooked and lightly flavored with little other than a bit of butter and sugar, the fruit, as it rightfully should, remains the main attraction. This version begins on the stovetop, where butter is cooked until nutty in aroma and color. Next, slices of marigold yellow-and-crimson peaches are sautéed briefly with a touch of sugar and a splash of smoky Bourbon just to get their juices flowing.

This is where you should pay special attention: we’ve had many cobblers that are topped with biscuits. A lovely concept in that biscuits are light and tender and will imbibe all the gooey runoff from the cobbler, but in practice, often a disappointment. The biscuit topping becomes mired in the fruit and the point of contact between the dough and the filling never cooks through properly, resulting in a soggy-bottomed—and often raw—mess.

To avoid this problem, the biscuit topping here is frugal and scattered in small pieces over the topping. These will bake along with the fruit in under 15 minutes, and the result will be properly cooked, crisp, textured mini-biscuits that contrast the supple peach filling. Oh, and, there’s fresh thyme in the topping that adds the subtle herbal scent of a late summer garden.

Gather ye peaches while you may — and, also, happy Labor Day weekend!

SWEET & SAVORY PEACH-THYME COBBLER
Serves 4 to 6
Fresh thyme leaves in the biscuit crumble topping of this cobbler add a savory hint to this classic summer dessert.

For the Thyme Biscuit Topping
¾ cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, plus additional for garnish
¾ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon baking soda
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into slices and chilled
5 tablespoons buttermilk, chilled

For the Peaches
½ stick (2 ounces) unsalted butter
4 ripe but firm peaches, pitted and sliced into 8 wedges
2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons lemon juice1 tablespoon Bourbon (optional)
⅛ teaspoon salt

For the Thyme Biscuit Topping: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 425°F.

In large mixing bowl, whisk together flour, brown sugar, lemon zest, thyme, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. Add butter slices to flour mixture and toss to coat. Working quickly, press slices of butter between thumb and forefinger, tossing in between presses, until butter is evenly distributed.

With a rubber spatula, stir in buttermilk, working dough just until combined. Quickly gather dough into ball and refrigerate while you make the peach base.

For the Peaches: Melt butter in 10-inch shallow skillet over medium heat until it begins to foam and brown flecks begin to be visible, 3 to 4 minutes. Add peaches, brown sugar, lemon juice, optional Bourbon, and salt, and cook, stirring gently and occasionally, until peaches begin to soften and release juices, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

Pinch off ¼-inch pieces of biscuit dough and scatter over peaches. Bake cobbler until biscuit topping is golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer skillet to cooling rack and allow to cool 5 minutes prior. Sprinkle with thyme leaves and serve.

Farmers’ markets pop up under white tents around the city throughout the spring, summer, and fall, and they are one of our favorite places to shop. Sure, brick and-mortar markets are necessary and the Cookin’ half of us visits two to three a day, but crowded, neon-illuminated aisles slowly navigated by angry old ladies with rickety carts and kids on Razors will grate on anyone’s nerves. People often suggest that we order food for photo shoots, but, to me (Maria) grocery shopping is a bit like foreplay, and I like to spend time getting to know what I’m buying; if it’s produce, I’m definitely getting to second base with it. Sure, you can get fruits and vegetables delivered to your home, but it is endlessly more satisfying to see, smell, and touch each slender-necked zucchini, each tangle patterned cantaloupe. More pleasurable still is spending a sun-drenched morning at the greenmarket leisurely going through these motions.

Last Saturday, Tara and I went to the Union Square Greenmarket, arriving before the crowds made it difficult to navigate. Piles of fuchsia radishes with
roots curled like small rodents’, wooden crates’ edges breached by gooseneck gourds, wildflowers abuzz with dizzy bees, emerald leafy greens bunched into
edible bouquets, dark crusty loaves of bread; the feast begins even before you’ve stuffed your tote bag.

Our greenmarket jaunt was all about going there without a shopping list (which is completely foreign to me as I usually type them up by supermarket section) and
picking up whatever seemed most appealing. Do the same; you’ll be surprised at how little fresh ingredients need to shine.
Below are a few recipes we pulled together for brunch later that morning; hopefully they’ll inspire you to shop outside this weekend.

GRILLED ZUCCHINI BLOSSOM SANDWICHES
Makes 4 sandwiches
The key to the success of these sandwiches is good ingredients. We like a Wonder Bread and American cheese version just like the next guy, but gussy the old standard with local cheese and artisan bread. Our choices are in the recipe, but feel free to use your own selections.
Zucchini blossoms are that vegetable’s bold and beautiful décor – luckily, they’re edible, too.

8 slices peasant bread, cut ¾-inch thick
6 tablespoons olive oil
8 ounces Brigid’s Abbey cheese, thinly sliced (See Headnote)
16 zucchini blossoms
Salt and pepper

Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 400°F.

Brush each slice of bread on both sides with 4 tablespoons oil. Heat large skillet over medium heat and grill bread in two batches until lightly toasted on both sides, about 4 minutes. Transfer bread to large baking sheet.

Distribute cheese evenly among bread slices and place in oven. Bake until cheese is melted and bubbling, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer tray to cooling rack.

Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in now empty skillet until shimmering. Add zucchini blossoms and sautée just until wilted, about 30 seconds. Season with salt and pepper.

Divide zucchini blossoms among 4 bread slices. Top with remaining bread slices, cheese-side down. Serve.

KALE AND PEACH SALAD
Serves 4 to 6 as a side dish
Anchovies provide this salad dressing with an assertive backbone. If you’re not a fan, trust me, they melt right in and get a good kick in the pants with the addition of caramelized lemon zest and bright, tart lemon juice.
Kale salads seem to be very in vogue at the moment, but the addition of ripe summer peaches is a surprise we bet you haven’t yet encountered.

Recipe notes: Microwaving the garlic and lemon zest in oil will mellow out the garlic and caramelize the lemon zest. As an alternative, heat the oil, garlic, and zest in a small saucepan over medium-low heat for 2 to 3 minutes.
- This salad can be prepared and dressed one day in advance; since kale is such a hearty green, it won’t wilt. Add the peaches right before serving.

1 large bunch Tuscan kale, ribs removed and discarded
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon zest and 3 tablespoons juice from 2 lemons
8 oil-packed anchovy fillets, finely minced
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper
2 ripe but firm peaches, cut into ½-inch thick wedges

Cut kale leaves into 1/8-inch-thick ribbons; you should have 6 cups.
Combine oil, garlic, and lemon zest in small bowl and microwave for 1 minute (See Notes).

Whisk anchovies, mustard, and lemon juice in salad bowl. While constantly whisking, slowly drizzle in oil mixture. Add kale and toss to evenly coat with dressing. Add peaches and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.

SIMPLE PLUM-CHAMPAGNE COMPOTE
Serves 4

Recipe notes: Large plums work in this recipe as well, however we picked up multi-colored petite versions at the greenmarket.
To remove the seeds, cut the plums in half, then core out the seeds with a paring knife. Don’t worry if they become a bit mangled in the process as they’ll break down during cooking.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup packed dark brown sugar
2 pints small plums, pitted, seeds discarded (See Notes)
¼ teaspoon salt
1/3 cup champagne or Riesling
2 cups mascarpone or plain Greek yogurt
Pepper

Melt butter in large skillet over medium-high heat until beginning to foam. Stir in brown sugar and cook until melted, about 2 minutes. Stir in plums and salt and cook, stirring occasionally until thick and syrupy, about 15 minutes.

Stir in champagne or Riesling, and continue cook until syrupy consistency is reached again, about 5 minutes longer. Serve at room temperature with mascarpone or Greek yogurt and season with pepper.

I am notorious for inviting people over to dinner and not being ready on time. I cook for a living, yet, it seems that when I’m cooking for leisure, I lose track of time. It’s not uncommon for guests to receive apologetic (and admittedly, frantic and misspelled) texts requesting they show up a little bit later. Even after this purchase of a few extra minutes, this hostess is usually sweating and running between kitchen and bathroom with dish rags, tongs, and hairdryer in hand when the doorbell announces the first arrival.

After discussing these issues with Tara we decided that what every hostess who wants to be the one with the mostes’ are easy recipes that can be prepared with little effort yet look and taste amazing. Important tip: seems like a no-brainer, but do try to shop and prep the day before your party; you will ooze calm-and-collectedness rather than perspiration.

Recipe one is for briny olives wrapped in a feta and Mediterranean-spiced crust. The dough comes together quickly and by hand in a single bowl (which minimizes clean-up) and is easy to handle. The olives can be prepared a day in advance and stored in the fridge. When ready to serve, pop in a preheated oven for about 20 minutes, and, voilà, all done.

Pesto is always a crowd-pleaser, but we don’t like to settle for the usual basil variety. Watercress is a perfect substitute, peppery and bold. Creamy, salty feta and pistachios add a curious twist to the old standard. Served with warm naan and crudités (we like to cheat and buy tiny carrots and cucumbers to minimize prep time), this will surely become one of your go-to appetizers.

The grilled squid salad is simple and impressive. The squid tubes are scored in a cross-hatch pattern (don’t worry about making incisions that are too deep as the squid is very resilient) that makes them curl up into gorgeous little tubes when cooked. Squid cooks very quickly so you’ll be in and out of the kitchen in a flash (do this prior to getting dressed, though, to avoid smelling like a poissonière!). If making in advance, chill and let rest at room temperature about 10 minutes before serving.

SPICED CHEESE-CRUSTED OLIVES
Serves 4 to 6

1 cup (4 ounces) crumbled feta cheese
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1 1/2 teaspoon za’atar spice
½ teaspoon salt
¾ cup all-purpose flour
24 to 30 small pitted olives, such as Manzanillas
Green olives
Peppadew peppers

Beverage pairing suggestion: chilled Lillet

- Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 375°F. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

- In large bowl, stir together cheese, butter, lemon zest, and za’atar until thoroughly combined. Add flour and incorporate with hands until a dough is formed. Cover dough with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes.

- Scoop out 1-teaspoon portions of dough and, using palms, roll into balls. With fingertips, flatten out into 1 ½-inch circles. Place 1 olive on each disc, wrap around olive, and, once again roll between palms. Transfer to baking sheet and, once circles are finished, refrigerate until firm, about 15 minutes.

- Bake until golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve warm with green olives and peppadew peppers.

WATERCRESS PISTACHIO PESTO
Serves 4

1 garlic clove
½ cup crumbled feta cheese
½ cup shelled roasted pistachios
4 cups watercress
2 teaspoons finely grated zest plus 1 tablespoons juice from 1 lemon
Salt and pepper
1/3 cup olive oil
Crudités
Warm naan

- In food processor, pulse garlic, feta, and pistachios until they form a paste. Add watercress, lemon zest, and lemon juice and pulse once again until a paste is formed. With mixer running, slowly pour in olive oil and process until combined. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with crudités and warm naan.

GRILLED SQUID SALAD
Serves 4

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon finely grated zest plus 2 tablespoons juice from 1 lemon
1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest
1 garlic clove, minced
½ teaspoon ground coriander
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon Aleppo pepper
1 pound cleaned squid
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 teaspoon toasted fennel seeds
1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves
½ pound small heirloom tomatoes, quartered

- Combine olive oil, lemon zest, orange zest, garlic, coriander, cumin, and Aleppo pepper in small bowl and microwave 45 seconds. Set aside.

- Cut squid tubes open to make flat pieces and, holding knife almost parallel to work surface (at a 30-degree angle), score inner side of flattened squid in a crosshatch pattern (do not cut all the way through). Pat squid bodies and tentacles dry and season with salt and pepper. Toss with vegetable oil.

- Heat grill or grill pan over medium-high heat. Grill squid just until cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Cut squid tubes into 1-inch lengths (you can use kitchen shears for this).

- Season tomatoes with salt and pepper.

- Whisk lemon juice into olive oil mixture and drizzle over squid. Garnish with fennel, oregano, and tomatoes. Serve warm or chilled.

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